the basics... nes cafe and tumr (dates)
this is the view from my window looking up the street at night.
the picture from the last post was from me looking down the road from my window at night.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
more pics
the basics... nes cafe and tumr (dates)
this is the view from my window looking up the street at night.
the picture from the last post was from me looking down the road from my window at night.
Friday, June 27, 2008
two stories
I do have quite a few stories to tell, but i'll just glaze over some of my favorites right now to help you think about what things have become most important to me in my days here.
First story:
Being American. My friend Emma and I finally made a good excursion out of the University area of the town just two days ago. Emma works as a freelance photographer sometimes for newspapers and such and she wanted to get some pictures from the area.
Down town is a bustling place. Little shops and markets over packed with souvenirs, shawls, clothes, shoes, prayer beads, you name it. Men stand outside in groups, sit in their shops smoking, heckle and call, and always make the scene a bit of an adventure for Emma and I (two blondies). So we decided to climb instead. Amman is sprawled out over many (originally 7) mountains/hills, and the roads never cease to climb, dip, curved, and twirl. Emma and I found a stare case we liked and climbed. We were met with even more eyes of confusion, curiosity, and interest, calls of 'hello! welcome in jordan!" and random phrases in other languages besides arabic. The best reception we got though was from the children. Seeing Emma's camera two boys first stopped us shouting out "yella sowwarini" (take a picture of me!). After a series of many pictures, and repeated calls for more, we got to take a look into one of their father's shops and introduce ourselves briefly. Arabic has become a like a jewel these days, like a back stage pass to the best concert ever, and has allowed me to feel more welcome than ever before. It makes me happy when i feel as if my arabic makes up for the fact that i'm american, and can sometimes stand for one of the most hated places right now.
but that's only sometimes. Later on after walking we ran into two little girls who yelled out to us just the opposite of the boys "la tasowwarini" (don't take my picture). we stopped and talked to them either way, making quick friends. Alaaf and Raghad were they're names. Alaaf jordanian and Raghad palestinian (Nablusi). After a while a plethora of young boys were surrounding us, asking where we were from. One boy, was sure that we were either syrian or lebanese, (i had put on a stronger syrian accent for these girls because they were so cute... i couldn't help but elongate my questions in the most musical crescendo possible...3arafti shlloooown?). For a while i played with the idea of taking on a syrian nationality, but couldn't bring myself to lie. Only after telling him that i was american, did i regret it though. I saw a bit of estrangement and disappointment that's never fun to see in both his eyes and the eyes of Raghad. Of course, I'm just assuming that they've heard horrible things about america and americans, and couldn't put the two and two together that i might possibly speak their language but be from america. Nonetheless we remained talking for a bit until emma and i decided to head off (or rather when Alaaf emphatically called out, "yella" to us as a signal to go because she was bored with us and wanted to eat her chips).
It's sometimes a tough reminder to face, but i can only hope that these kids were more impressed rather than confused. who knows
Story 2:
Learning to Give
So over this past week I've spent most of my time either in the hotel where we stay or in the library just around the corner that is hosting our program. To be more accurate, I've tried as much as I can to be in the Lobby of our hotel, particularly because I've become so fond of the receptionists that work here. of the three working here now, two are brothers Lu'ay and Bilal, that I've gotten to know the most. In the beginning I started speaking to Lu'ay because i knew he didn't speak English, and with my lack of resources to keep speaking, he was always more than happy to sit and chat when he was free. Bilal speaks more English because he's younger and in University, but is also just as happy to speak and help me out whenever i'm around.
Of the two Lu'ay makes the most effort to speak with us all and find out our stories, as I was interested to hear his. He's 35, married to his cousin, has two children (two boys Muhammad and Ahmad) and originally from Yaffa (tel abib) although he was born and raised in Jordan. He's never been able to go to Palestine.
Quite frankly my lobby chats with Lu'ay have become the highlight of my time thus far, and we quickly became good friends. As soon as this happened I immediately began to think of the way that I could share my thanks for his help, and returned of course to trying to think of a small gift to give him that would show such. I only really brought gifts for women with me though and didn't have any time to go down and get something from the store when i first thought of it.
But of course. He beat me to it. Just yesterday Lu'ay came to work and brought me a gift; A mug with a cute cartoon character on it, and of course was packaged in a pink box with flowers all over it. He said that he had seen the mug and thought of me because it has "baby face" like me (his own words exactly... amazing) and also so that I can have my own cup when we drink tea together... which has become a daily routien. Here stuff that is tackily cute, is considered the best gift. Had i not received gifts like this before in my time in the middle east, i would have most likely laughed at the cup more than i would have enjoyed it (i'll post a picture later...it's pretty amazing). But instead I was so moved. I'm constantly amazed at the way people share here, sometimes giving gifts from right off their body (bracelets, necklaces, rings) just to give and be remembered by. I can't wait to find something to give in return for he, his children, and wife.
(note: the sad end to this story is that when i went to finally have tea with him using the cup, the cup cracked... and he noticed. I pretended not to care, but i could tell he was upset... we'll see what happens).
So that's it for now. I'll update with less fun things soon to fill in the gaps. but these are the moments i cherish.
First story:
Being American. My friend Emma and I finally made a good excursion out of the University area of the town just two days ago. Emma works as a freelance photographer sometimes for newspapers and such and she wanted to get some pictures from the area.
Down town is a bustling place. Little shops and markets over packed with souvenirs, shawls, clothes, shoes, prayer beads, you name it. Men stand outside in groups, sit in their shops smoking, heckle and call, and always make the scene a bit of an adventure for Emma and I (two blondies). So we decided to climb instead. Amman is sprawled out over many (originally 7) mountains/hills, and the roads never cease to climb, dip, curved, and twirl. Emma and I found a stare case we liked and climbed. We were met with even more eyes of confusion, curiosity, and interest, calls of 'hello! welcome in jordan!" and random phrases in other languages besides arabic. The best reception we got though was from the children. Seeing Emma's camera two boys first stopped us shouting out "yella sowwarini" (take a picture of me!). After a series of many pictures, and repeated calls for more, we got to take a look into one of their father's shops and introduce ourselves briefly. Arabic has become a like a jewel these days, like a back stage pass to the best concert ever, and has allowed me to feel more welcome than ever before. It makes me happy when i feel as if my arabic makes up for the fact that i'm american, and can sometimes stand for one of the most hated places right now.
but that's only sometimes. Later on after walking we ran into two little girls who yelled out to us just the opposite of the boys "la tasowwarini" (don't take my picture). we stopped and talked to them either way, making quick friends. Alaaf and Raghad were they're names. Alaaf jordanian and Raghad palestinian (Nablusi). After a while a plethora of young boys were surrounding us, asking where we were from. One boy, was sure that we were either syrian or lebanese, (i had put on a stronger syrian accent for these girls because they were so cute... i couldn't help but elongate my questions in the most musical crescendo possible...3arafti shlloooown?). For a while i played with the idea of taking on a syrian nationality, but couldn't bring myself to lie. Only after telling him that i was american, did i regret it though. I saw a bit of estrangement and disappointment that's never fun to see in both his eyes and the eyes of Raghad. Of course, I'm just assuming that they've heard horrible things about america and americans, and couldn't put the two and two together that i might possibly speak their language but be from america. Nonetheless we remained talking for a bit until emma and i decided to head off (or rather when Alaaf emphatically called out, "yella" to us as a signal to go because she was bored with us and wanted to eat her chips).
It's sometimes a tough reminder to face, but i can only hope that these kids were more impressed rather than confused. who knows
Story 2:
Learning to Give
So over this past week I've spent most of my time either in the hotel where we stay or in the library just around the corner that is hosting our program. To be more accurate, I've tried as much as I can to be in the Lobby of our hotel, particularly because I've become so fond of the receptionists that work here. of the three working here now, two are brothers Lu'ay and Bilal, that I've gotten to know the most. In the beginning I started speaking to Lu'ay because i knew he didn't speak English, and with my lack of resources to keep speaking, he was always more than happy to sit and chat when he was free. Bilal speaks more English because he's younger and in University, but is also just as happy to speak and help me out whenever i'm around.
Of the two Lu'ay makes the most effort to speak with us all and find out our stories, as I was interested to hear his. He's 35, married to his cousin, has two children (two boys Muhammad and Ahmad) and originally from Yaffa (tel abib) although he was born and raised in Jordan. He's never been able to go to Palestine.
Quite frankly my lobby chats with Lu'ay have become the highlight of my time thus far, and we quickly became good friends. As soon as this happened I immediately began to think of the way that I could share my thanks for his help, and returned of course to trying to think of a small gift to give him that would show such. I only really brought gifts for women with me though and didn't have any time to go down and get something from the store when i first thought of it.
But of course. He beat me to it. Just yesterday Lu'ay came to work and brought me a gift; A mug with a cute cartoon character on it, and of course was packaged in a pink box with flowers all over it. He said that he had seen the mug and thought of me because it has "baby face" like me (his own words exactly... amazing) and also so that I can have my own cup when we drink tea together... which has become a daily routien. Here stuff that is tackily cute, is considered the best gift. Had i not received gifts like this before in my time in the middle east, i would have most likely laughed at the cup more than i would have enjoyed it (i'll post a picture later...it's pretty amazing). But instead I was so moved. I'm constantly amazed at the way people share here, sometimes giving gifts from right off their body (bracelets, necklaces, rings) just to give and be remembered by. I can't wait to find something to give in return for he, his children, and wife.
(note: the sad end to this story is that when i went to finally have tea with him using the cup, the cup cracked... and he noticed. I pretended not to care, but i could tell he was upset... we'll see what happens).
So that's it for now. I'll update with less fun things soon to fill in the gaps. but these are the moments i cherish.
Monday, June 23, 2008
bored
We just finished our first two days of classes here at the Qasid institute. Having only two hours of class from 8-10 makes it seems like we don't have class at all sometimes since we are done so early in the morning and have the rest of the day free. They haven't made us do any 'external activities' yet either, so I really haven't had too many opportunities to get into town and see things.
Two nights ago I did get a chance to go out to a very western/upper class cafe two watch the turkey/croatia game on big screen, but it was a place i knew well before and it was kind of weird to be around Jordanians who were so english-ized that they were speaking english to each other... not just to foreigners. It kind of through me off at first... but I guess it makes since. I did get to see a nice souq (market) that night which was down the street in Jabal Amman. They have concerts there every friday night along with the souq.
I also got to learn some fun facts about the Chechnian (sp?) community in Amman... apparently it's not that small. We saw a group of Chechyan guys doing some time of dance in the street. The jordanian friend of my friend Emma here was explaining to us that they come and take certain jobs in the police force, which i thought was weird because I had believed those jobs were reserved mostly for Jordanians, but either way, who knows.
I'm having trouble thinking of things I want to put down. my mind is on something real specific right now that i can't really work out, so maybe i'll write again later. but that's all i can really offer for now. maybe i'll put some pic's up tomorrow.
Two nights ago I did get a chance to go out to a very western/upper class cafe two watch the turkey/croatia game on big screen, but it was a place i knew well before and it was kind of weird to be around Jordanians who were so english-ized that they were speaking english to each other... not just to foreigners. It kind of through me off at first... but I guess it makes since. I did get to see a nice souq (market) that night which was down the street in Jabal Amman. They have concerts there every friday night along with the souq.
I also got to learn some fun facts about the Chechnian (sp?) community in Amman... apparently it's not that small. We saw a group of Chechyan guys doing some time of dance in the street. The jordanian friend of my friend Emma here was explaining to us that they come and take certain jobs in the police force, which i thought was weird because I had believed those jobs were reserved mostly for Jordanians, but either way, who knows.
I'm having trouble thinking of things I want to put down. my mind is on something real specific right now that i can't really work out, so maybe i'll write again later. but that's all i can really offer for now. maybe i'll put some pic's up tomorrow.
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