So for those that read this who aren't a part of SIT, my blog is going to double as a "journal' that we have to enter weekly for an anthropology course. so these will be a bit weird and talking about a lot of wierd things. I'd love to hear comments, because i'm finding that i'm really in need of a new set of eyes to see the world i'm in. Sorry that this one is so long, but the past few days have been quite jammed.
Monday February 12th, 2007 8:56 PM
So this will be my official first journal entry, although i've been writing in my own personal journal, on a blog, and also on my computer. I will try to insert some appropriate sections from those entries into that one to get some good recap on how i've been feeling ever since the home-stay has started. There are so many things to think about and say i'll just address the ones that are mostly on my mind at the moment, and hopefully i'll be able to recap most things through more entries. Perhaps the most important thing on my mind at the moment is reading my place in this house. Every since i've arrived it's been an awkward situation, which of course is expected, but i think my expectations were much different from what is going on now. This started ever since the very first moment i came to the house. When i came to the house i came with Monica (because her house mother was working and wasn't going to be at home... her house mother is also the sister of my house mother, so i see her often, and it would later be convenient for my house sister to take us over later in the afternoon considering she is her aunt). Anyways, when we arrived at the house... which is an actual house mind you, multiple floors and standing by itself on a hill... we were welcomed only by my house mother a3beer, who seemed a bit quiet and out of sorts. She had the made show us where my room was immediately and we took my bags downstairs... where i have my own room and bathroom. i was astounded by the size of the room/bed/ that i had a desk/ and especially my own bathroom. It is only I and the maid (JenJen) in the basement, so it's like my own little apartment almost. Anyways, after we brought my bags down, I returned upstairs where A3beer and i sat in the non-special welcoming room (i.e. the living room that they sit in all the time around the HUGE screen TV, watch tv together, nap, read, do homework, and where the close family comes and sits at night to chat and hang... they have two other welcoming rooms, one which is just for sitting with all the fancy decor of the welcoming room, and than also a second one which is half dining table/ sitting). I haven't seen them use either of these sitting rooms yet for welcoming guests yet). Anyways, so Monica and i sat with her, and conversation was slow going. We were speaking mostly in Arabic i believe, but it was all the small talk of getting to know eachother... but not after long she made it clear that she wasn't feeling too well... she has just had an operation done and has an IV in her arm, which i hadn't noticed at first (it wasn't hooked up to anything at the time). Then she went upstairs to call the oldest daughter Batool, who was asleep. so we just sat in the room by ourselves., eventually Batool came down, she is my age. She had clearly just woken up, was in her pajamas. Again more small talk, but nothing of access, then she was moving around in the kitchen i think. Eventually we were all just sitting in the room watching the TV in silence. I didn't really know what to do. Finally, someone came to show us where Laura is living... just in the neighborhood, and we ended up going to her house and then down also to Amber's house for a bit. Both for very short times. Then Monica and i returned to our house, and as we were walking back we noticed a car pull up with an older man and a younger girl walk in our house... it turned out to be my second sister and father. the sister said hello i think, and that has been about the extent of our conversations since. The father said hello. Lunch was ready at this time. Eventually the youngest son came, and he was the most enthusiastic about speaking to me... but in english completely. he likes speaking English. The meal was very interesting.
It was magbool (upside-down, which i've had before and enjoy very much). For the meal we all gathered round in the dining hall... the oldest brother (22 years) didn't come until after we had started. The meal was very informal to me, everyone served themselves (unlike how i was always served in Syria), no one insisted that i be served first, or that anything special happen to me. No one insisted that i eat more. they just asked the polite, 'would you like more' and then 'shba3ti?" and that was it. Thing i noticed that i was expecting, the father was served by the youngest daughter... and also the older brother was served by her if he asked (sometimes not always). We ate in silence, i actually literally didn't say a word the entire time. I didn't know what to say and the family didn't seem at all interested so that was that. Also about the oldest brother... I said hello and shook hands but there has been absolutely no conversation or eye-contact made between us ever since, which is mostly my doing i guess, because i'm not particularly interested in dealing with that (of course that's a whole other subject). Anyways, the meal was silent, they had some conversation in arabic among themselves, i understood mostly but didn't comment. Then the youngest brother finished first, said his "alhamdallah" and "atsslem eideik" to his mother, took his bowl, got up and left the table. didn't come back. After him was the oldest brother, then the youngest sister, than the oldest. Monica and i were still eating... actually is was mostly just me and the father still eating and i felt that both monica and the mother were staying out of politeness. eventually the father left, and the mother sat patiently. I finished the meal, she said her polite "eat mores" and "shba3ti?", i said my thank you and thank gods, and i took my plate to the kitchen, where the maid cleaned them. everyone had gone off and was doing their own thing. I felt as if we had interrupted their life, or perhaps as if i wasn't even in the house. so i went down stairs with monica to organize my things, we stayed down there for a bit and then came upstairs. when we came back upstairs, Monica's homestay mother, A3bla (a3beer's sister), had come and was speaking with a3beer. we sat down a bit. afterwards, batool, ahmad (youngest brother) took Monica and her mother and i to her house. There we moved her stuff in and then sat in her living room a bit, again around the tv. Batool made us nescafe, and then eventually her and Ahmad, started up their aunts computer and were using her internet. We talked about TV, movies, music. After A3bla prayed (she prayed right next to us as we talked and watched TV) i spoke with her about her life a bit. She was the one most willing to speak to me, and to also speak with me in Arabic, which was refreshing. She was much more lively. She showed me pictures of her family and her travels. I started the conversation with her by commenting on the shawl she was wearing, which she had gotten in algeria... where she had lived a bit. she talked about how the design was "taqleedi," and although i can't remember the specific conversation at the moment, we also spoke about how it resembled work from over her. i think i made some comment of saying, ' oh that looks palestinian" and then there was a comment about it being "arab". then i asked about if it was arab or berber, and then we had a discussion about the difference between berber and bedouin and arab i think, but i can't remember the details. we also talked about her daughter a bit... she had no qualms about mentioning the fact that she got a divorce, she said "after two years they had made a mutual and good agreement that it was no longer right to be together". and that was that. so yeah eventually she prayed again, and afterwards, Batool, Ahmad and i returned home. Here i will insert part from an entry i made from that very night
"Then we came back and then we sat for the next like 5 hours, in the living room around their HUGE screen tv, while family came over to visit... i'm not exactly sure who they were, but it was two couples, one with two daughters (one with downs syndrome, but cute as ever which they call bushbush, and the other a little older, named a3bla as well, but who they call a3bloo i think). They would often play the game "bah bah" which is a tickling game i guess, with bushbush, waiting to see if she would laugh when she got tickled or not. The baby was so cute, and very observant, like overwhelmed by the world. and would latch onto your hand if you put your finger in her palm, and also follow your finger if you put it in front of her. mostly the tv was on american stuff, but was on the news for a bit, which i enjoyed. Anyways some interesting conversation topics : talking about one of Ahmad's friends last name as "Taweel" and how they had to clear up the name and try to decifer where he was from ... A3bla (older) thought it was "asafraa" or something...which i'm assuming is a tribe or city, but then they got into saying that there are some Palestinians with that name. Later in the night, talking about water always seemed to come up. the one couple with the young boy (forgot to mention the 2nd couple), the woman in the couple mentioned how now her water only comes out hot now after some smelly gas, and that before it would come out but never get hot. there was an argument between the men in the two couples at one moment, which i think was talking about a personal fued within the family, something that had happened in the past. the one man A3mir i think, got very mad quickly and they were both yelling, but eventually it just ended with him smoking and A3beer being the mediator just repeating, 'it's in the past' and such things. A lot of the talk was baby talk with the kids. i feel at one point there was one commet made about the talks in Saudi right now [between hamas and fetah] saying,,, "what are they really saying...' as if nothing's really going to come about in the dispute. A3beer talked about the pain she's in, and how she's dealing with him. They had to put a new iv in her in her hand for her medicine, the iv in her arm had gotten swollen. I was trying to notice these "direct" language things that the packet was talking about. One i remember was the one man asking "Muhammad wein?" simply, muhammad where... which in english would be, where is Muhammad... i guess the whole fact that you don't even use "is' in arabic in the present tense... who knows what that really signifies, but just that it's there. "
But of course i could go on and on about the details of the past few days. Here is the summation of what i've done. On Friday, i woke up late, ate breakfast that was left over (by myself), and then sat around most of the day. Went on a walk with Ahmad to the store and around the block, returned, then went for a walk also with the girls in the neighborhood. this was the first time that i had to deal with unwanted male attention since coming to Jordan... there was just a car full of guys that followed us around, threw out the usual "you speak arabic" and "oh my!". Otherwise it was sitting around the TV and such things. Then at night we went to an engagement party. A few important things happened there that I'd like to mention. First of all... upon arrival, it was the second time i saw my older brother, but i made no contact with him, nor he with me, upon entering the party, while he said his hello's and such to his own family. Once we got to the party i was completely ditched. I shook hands with the people welcoming everyone, but no one introduced me. I was kind of just walking around aimlessly until ahmad told me to go sit in the big room where the women and children sat. i sat awkwardly by myself, just watching people. there was a bunch of younger boys staring, but i just ignored them, and eventually they stopped. I didn't talk to anyone. Eventually A3beer called me over to her couch, so i just sat in silence again. By this time the dance party had started... there was a DJ and two huge speakers, playing the music so loud that you could literally feel it in your body... and i was sitting right next to the speaker (by the end of the night i had to leave the room because my ears hurt so much... especially my right ear, which essentially could no longer function.). The first dance was just done by the bride and groom, but after that women and boys joined in and were dancing. most of the older women were covered, but others not. younger girls in teenage years were normal clothes by american standards. the music was arab pop. some older songs would come up too, and the old women were dancing as well. Dancing went on for forever. i had to make break aways into the bathroom just to get away for a bit. i didn't speak to any men at all. they were in the separate room, but at one point when i returned i was sitting in a place in clear view from the mens room and noticed that one younger boy was having a fun time getting a look, i just kept ignoring. Eventually the men started coming into the dance room and dancing as well. A few rounds of debkeh with men and women mixed. They exchanged rings at one point and then kept dancing. Still no one speaking to me. I essentially didn't exist. No one offered me the drinks/foods/sweets that were being offered, but i think that was also just a part of missing me, not intentional. at one point finally a girl came up to me and started speaking with me... Natasha, british mother and Palestinian father, we spoke about amman, and volunteering in the city... she will be a good contact. anyways, eventually the music stopped and people started shuffling out (it had been about 2 to 2.5 hours of dancing). then just the closest relatives were left, which my family is a part of. I sat next to Batool a bit and we spoke a bit, i asked her about the arabic names (khal/khala/ a3m...) of everyone so that i could get the family straight. then eventually all the kids wanted to leave to go 'out'. I came with. we fit in two cars, but i was stuffed in a car with people i mostly didn't know... so there was more of my silence, and once again, no one speaking with me. we ended up just driving around the city a bit, listening to music, and before we got to go to a restaurant or place to hang out they had to head back because of being called by their parents. Then we came back home, Batool, Ahmad, Rayia (the younger sister) and i to our house) I slept.
Saturday i was out of the house mostly, at SIT and then we went around to al-luweibdah and to darat al-fanoon, and also al-anda where they were actually having an opening for a new art exhibition. It was an interesting crowd there. The exhibition was focused on the leaves of al-nakhlah (the date tree). She also dealt a lot from the poetry of al-khalil gibran.
But yeah, the only other type of general event that i want to speak about is how the family comes over to this house. Every day there have been people over at night. Saturday night a bunch of people came over, and we ate Fatoush together. all in the living room around the TV. Discussion ranged from buying cars, talking about the babies, arguing about cigarettes, A3beer's health, talking and playing with the baby, talking about the absurdity of the american movie that was on (Especially my father was mesmerized by the film, and kept making comments like " why is she doing that, is she crazy?" and "it doesn't make sense") It was a horror flick that i hadn't seen before, and i joined the group by the end, they had the sound down, but i was reading the subtitle in arabic as everyone else was (happy at that moment for the many hours of early morning tutoring that i spent with Ghazwa in Damascus learning how to read more quickly) and was able to keep up... while also able to learn a few new words like 'stable'. by the end of the film we were all just paying attention to the film, as it had reached it's climax and the crazy woman trying to kill her daughter in law, was finally getting caught. in the end we never really ended up speaking about it, because eventually one of the older ladies made a comment to turn off the TV because there was no conversation (mentioning how sad it was that we were all gathered but weren't doing anything but being mesmerized by the TV). The film was weird, so i'm kind of glad they didn't just turn to me and be like "what the hell was that...". [ i would like to insert that we've had other conversations about american tv as well... for instance last night the lord of the rings was on, and they began by commenting on how weird and stupid the movie was. i explained that it was an amazing story, as a book, and also as a film, mentioning the fact that the author was so creative that he made up his own language in the books (which hopefully is true... i'm not actually that avid of a LOTR fan). Either way they didn't seem to care. At this point they still kept watching the movie, and i felt it was because i was there and made a comment about how nice a film it was... thus they would be keeping it on for me (perhaps), so i decided to headed down to bed anyways, to make sure they weren't trying to appease me, because i never really watch TV anyways).]
But back to family gatherings. There is also a family gathering going on at the moment, but i've been studying and didn't want to get stuck into sitting around a TV and just listening to conversation, so i asked Batool if i could come downstairs, and as always, she responded with the "khoothi raHtik"... which seems to come out of my mothers mouth or any other's whenever i ask any question [ "is it alright if i go out now? is there a set time you want me back at night" -Joab- "Khoothi rahtik"- "when may i take a shower?" "Khoothi raHtik, inti, ishee bidik khoothiha, tirtaHi"]. But let me stay on track. These family gatherings, they seem to go pretty long. For instance, the last guest to come is "Hajji" who i'm guessing is A3beer's father, which everyone gets up to greet formally, with the kisses and the whole nine-yards. When he comes late, people usually only stay for a bit longer, and then he seems to sit with A3beer after everyone leaves. I'm not sure if this is because she's not well, or if this is a normal occurrence... but she had another operation yesterday, so she's actually been feeling worse. I don't know when she'll start feeling better.
Ok, i've spent too much time detailing things and not really saying what's been on my mind, but here's what i've been feeling in general. For the most part i feel as if i'm either not that welcome in the house, or i've just misunderstood what my role with the family should be. Luckily yesterday i was able to get in some good time around the TV with the women of the family, and really start speaking with them in Arabic, i got them comfortable enough to realize that i can communicate well enough with them in Arabic, and especially made them realize that i understand nearly everything they say, so we started speaking more easily. Perhaps it was the atmosphere of women that made the situation more comfortable. [NOTE: this was also the time i met the first women of the family who i spoke with about religion... which is when i really got some people's attention. We were sitting over lunch, this women, my father, and I, and i'm not sure what came up, but she started quoting the Quran, specifically a Surah that i had memorized from when i did recitation last spring. Actually i remember now. I asked if there was a specific name for the two different types of Olives, the black and the green, and she said no, and then she started speaking about the healthiness of olives and started "at-teeni wa zeitooni wa touri sineen"... i.e. Surah aT-Teen (Fig). she went through a through lines of the surah, enthusiastically, i was nodding along, trying to remember the coming lines, and then she continued speaking with my father about it. Then i finally came up with the next line "laqad khalaq alinsan fii aHsan tuQaweem", and from there we began speaking about religion, and how i had memorized a few. The father made some comment about him constantly being surprised be how much i knew of arabic, but then was done with the meal and left. Meanwhile i continued to speak with this lady about Religion... she started making an interesting argument about how all religions are the same as long as we believe in Our God "rubunah", but i just went with the nodding head response on this one because i wasn't in the mood for the conversation. Either way, throughout the afternoon she was definitely the most interested in speaking with me and talking in general. She commented on my beauty, comparing me to one of Rayia's friends (saying that i looked like her) and also asked me about the beauty of Shamy women. We both agreed that the women from the North are prettiest (i said Aleppo, because i've actually had discussions about this with women before... i don't know that i really believe it, and we can talk about exotifying women later, but for the sake of conversation i agreed) She then agreed with A3bla the older (A3beer's sister/monica's mom) that women from Homs are the most beautiful. I said i hadn't really been there. She also told me the story of how the Sphynx's nose in Egypt was broken (by Napolean was her story), and i told her how i thought it had been done on mistake by the Sculptor (me not knowing the story at all and only having the image in my head from the Disney movie Aladin when Aladin and Jasmine fly by on the magic carpet and scare the sculptor so bad that he cracks the nose and it falls off... i guess it's not Jasmine's fault after all...)] But yes, i think i do need to be aware about the assumptions that i've made about this family even before getting to know them. I had some built in defense wall put in me as soon as i heard they were wealthy, because i'm always a bit weary of wealth in general. Unfortunately I feel like i'm blaming this confusing position that i have with the family, on the fact that they're wealthy, and perhaps "different," and "less arab" (who knows what that means really...). But by no means am i unhappy. I appreciate to know end, the hot water, the great food, the privacy they've given me, the generosity thus far (which truly has been more than anyone could ask)... i guess i was just expecting to be forced into an uncomfortable situation, and instead i've found a comfortable one, besides the feeling of distance. Perhaps the distance in their family though actually comes from the amount of space they have in this house though. the house is 3-4 floors total (basement included), and when i think back to my tutors house in damascus, which fit about the same size family (3 kids/ two parents) into two bedrooms smaller than mine here, a closet size living room, a formal welcoming room, and a kitchen (all of which is probably combined smaller than the size of the basement floor of this house), I can imagine that family relations would be made a lot closer in such a space, and perhaps that the same type of relationship would be forced upon people they met as well. (My tutor ghazwa and i were much closer even when we still barely knew eachother... after the first time she invited me to eat at her house, she made me call her as soon as i arrived safely home, and when i forgot to call her, she called me within 10 minutes after i arrived home to double check... as opposed to my family here, i told them i'd be home at 10 at the latest after the rock concert we went to, and when i arrived home at 10:20 it was as if they didn't even know i was out... of course, there is a different concept of time in general here, and perhaps they do have the same concern, but i don't know).